Auto Manufactures - Should they be bailed out or not? Others wern't!

Here is an interesting article that focus' on the truth of real Capitalism. A few make it, others will fail. From that will arise the strong and innovative. Do I think that they should be bailed out? Sorry, but I say "NO!". They need to change thier contracts, union deals and restructure thier companies.

Read on...

Reference Link: Fox News Article

U.S. Automakers That Failed Without Being Bailed
By David Lee Miller
Fox News

Long before GM, Ford and Chrysler became the Big Three, there were hundreds of automobile manufacturers that went out of business without ever asking for a government bailout.

More than a century ago nearly every major city in America had a company building automobiles. In 1895 the Chicago Motor Corporation built what it called a motocycle. The term didn't last and neither did the manufacturer. According to automotive historian Kit Foster, “car companies sometime failed simply because they were under-capitalized.”

1917 Pierce Arrow

Companies like Brush Auto ran into another problem. At a cost of $550 they couldn't compete with the Ford Model T, which, during its nearly two-decade assembly-line production run sold for as little as $300.

Other manufacturers were simply victims of the Depression. Many specialized in upscale and luxury automobiles. The 1929 stock market crash brought down St. Louis-based Moon Auto and Buffalo’s Pierce Arrow. Also unable to ride out hard times: DuPont, the car of choice for film star Douglas Fairbanks, boxer Jack Dempsey and other celebrities. The “playboy car” of the era, an eight-cylinder DuPont cost over $4,000. Reputation alone was not enough to keep the car in production and in 1932 the last DuPont rolled out of the Wilmington, Delaware factory. (see burgundy 1930 DuPont Roadster)

Even cars offering some of the latest innovations couldn’t stay in business. Have you driven a Cord lately? No, not Ford—Cord. The company was one of the first to offer vehicles with front-wheel drive, but it closed its doors in 1937.

Automakers that survived the crash did so “by producing commercial vehicles and smaller economy vehicles” according to Jeff Bliemeister, curator of Hershey Pennsylvania’s Antique Automobile Club of America Museum. Bliemeister says the key to survival was producing cars within a budget that the average person could afford.


Following the Second World War, when auto factories were converted for military production, a few new car companies managed to open. But despite the booming economy and shortage of new vehicles, most didn't last long. While you probably never heard of a Kaiser automobile, (see Burgundy 1952 Kaiser Manhattan) the name Tucker lives on, thanks mostly to a Hollywood movie about the company's famous demise.


Despite joining forces, better-known auto makers Studebaker and Packard (see Blue 1952 Studebaker Convertible) also couldn't survive. After ceasing U.S. operations in 1963, the combined company struggled to stay in the automotive business at a plant in Hamilton, Ontario before shutting its doors for good in 1966.

Wisconsin-based American Motors was formed thanks to the merger of Hudson and Nash Kelvinator in the 1950s. The company, with quirky designs and models named Rebel, Gremlin, and Pacer, focused on making small, fuel-efficient cars. But by the 1980s AMC lost its way and became part of Chrysler.

As the surviving U.S. auto manufacturers struggle to stay in business, product lines are still being trimmed. Already gone are GM’s Oldsmobile and Chrysler’s Plymouth divisions. Even with a Washington bailout some analysts say the future for the U.S. auto industry will be tough.

“The American car-buying public is fickle, they can change their tastes much more rapidly than an automaker can retool with a new type of product,” Foster warns. The only expansion that seems certain is more museum space dedicated to cars no longer in production.

__________________________________________________________

My last word; I like Ford. I own 3 of them. From 1928, 1929 and 1999. Maybe the CEO of Ford needs to go back to the companies roots; Read the archives of Henry Ford and learn a thing or two. Obviously he did something right.

What do you think?

Readers Time to Chime In!

Are you a reader or browser to Vintage Metal? I would like to know what you think. Anyone interested in submitting guest articles? Please chime in and comment!

Adjusting your Early Brakes

Here are a few great drawings to reference too.

Information by "RumbleSeat"
Referenced Website: http://www.btc-bci.com/~billben/brakeadj.html


Adjusting '39-'42 Brakes:

I used to hate these brakes because of the adjustable double anchor when I was a mechanic in the mid fifties. Then a fellow mechanic showed me a Ford Service bulletin. Ever since then, I have preferred these to the '46-'48 units since I can get a better adjustment.

These are Lockheed brakes which use eccentric washers in conjunction with non-eccentric anchor pins to position the shoes. The top of the shoe is controlled by an eccentric cam (usually 11/16") located near the top of the shoe. The anchor pins, located at the bottom of the backing plate, control the shoe position by turning the eccentric washers at the bottom of the shoe. These anchor pins have locating on the elongated 1/4" adjuster. The locating marks may be a dot or an arrow, I'm assuming everything is in good condition and not rusty or frozen.

Step 1: Loosen the anchor pin large lock nuts (usually 3/4") on both shoes of one wheel just barley enough to permit turning the 1/4" anchor pin adjusters. Now, turn both of the 1/4" adjusters so the locator marks face directly towards each other. This next point is important .... All further adjustments are made by turning the anchor pins (1/4") and eccentric (11/16") downwards.

Step 2: Back off the upper eccentric cam adjusters on both shoes until the wheel rotates freely.

Step 3: Now turn one of the upper eccentric (11/16") until the wheel cannot be turned.

Step 4: Now turn it's 1/4" anchor pin adjuster downward until the wheel just turns freely. This lowers the shoe and moves the toe of the shoe away from the drum and results in fuller shoe contact.

Step 5: Now go back to Step 3 and do it and step 4 again to the same shoe. Repeat as necessary until turning the 1/4" anchor pin adjuster will no longer free up the wheel. Back off both anchor pin adjuster and upper eccentric just enough so the wheel has a slight drag. Tighten the anchor pin lock nut (3/4") without letting the anchor pin adjuster move. Now do the other shoe the same way.

If you've worn the shoes badly at the top, it'll take some time to wear the heel enough so you get full brake shoe contact.
When adjusting brakes, always turn the wheel in the same direction the wheel would turn when the car travels forward.


PS: The 1/4" anchor adjustment bolts require an offset open end wrench about 8 1/2" in length to get enough leverage to turn, I think it's a special Ford tool and hard to find.

Additional Information regarding the Adjustment of Early Brakes.

Adjusting the upper hex bolts to set shoe clearance is the easy part. The confusing part is the lower anchors on 39-42's. The Service Bulletin sends you through a procedure to follow, but does not explain why or what needs to be achieved.

The purpose of the lower anchors, which are eccentrics, is to properly position/center the linings in the drums, so that full lining contact can occur. OF FIRST IMPORTANCE is to have the new linings arc ground to fit the arc of the drums, which may be different on each drum, depending on the oversize of the drum. If this is not done, you are rolling the dice on whether the lining is too large of an arc (and will only contact the drum at the ends) or too small (and will only contact the drum at the center of the lining)- in either case, full contact cannot occur regardless of the anchor adjustment. Note also that the lower anchor adjustment is only required when installing new linings.

Once the anchor studs are set and the lock nuts are tightened, the shoes will not move out of center with the drums, and thereafter only the upper adjustment need be performed to compensate for lining wear.

In a nutshell, assemble the anchors with the dots facing each other as a starting point. Make sure that the drum turns freely, then adjust the uppers until they don't, then back them off until they do.

Have a helper apply about 30lbs of pressure to the brake pedal while (with the lock nut loosened) turning the flat on the anchor stud in each direction to cause the lining to impact the drum in both directions, then set the anchor in about the middle of that travel, hold the stud while tightening the lock nut. This essentially centers the lining up/down in the drum, allowing it to make full contact
when the brakes are applied. This operation is done to each anchor/shoe/lining separately. When all have been done, again adjust the upper (clearance) hex heads until the shoes are just barely off of the drums.

Road test and readjust as necessary to make it stop good and straight.

It is also important to have at least 1/16" of free travel of the Mcyl pushrod before it starts moving the Mcyl piston; otherwise, the brakes will not fully release, will get hot and will lock up.

The above is not exactly the same procedure as provided elsewhere, but it is what I do and it seems to work well. If you keep in mind what you are trying to accomplish, it makes sense.

Bonneville Salt Flats - Save the Salt

I was browsing the internet and suprisingly I ended up at the Southern California Timing Association's (SCTA) website. Reading tid bits to put together another article for the readers to enjoy; I stumbled on this.

"Save the Salt". What is this about? I have lived in So. Cal for 20+ years; toyed with Hot Rods for the past 10 years and NEVER knew of such a delima. So I don't blab myself or my readers to sleep, read on!

Save the Salt, A Brief History

from Mike Waters

It has come to our attention that there are a number of folks out there that are not fully aware of what our Save The Salt organization is all about. To that end we have comprised the following brief history of when and why Save The Salt was formed. We hope this tells the story "In a Nutshell" Thanks to Mary West (Secretary of Save The Salt) for putting this history together and thanks to JoAnn Carlson (SCTA/BNI Office) for forwarding the note to us from a gentleman who is a new competitor at Bonneville. He said that he knew Save The Salt was important but he wondered what it was. By the way, he sent a donation along with his inquiry.

Save The Salt, a brief history:During the (1930-1940) era the Bonneville Salt Flats was able to support the weight of 10-ton twin-engine streamliners that roared down the 13.5-mile long Race Courses. The Hot Rods roared onto the salt flats in 1949 with the first Speed Week event and have run every year since. Of course a few years were missed due to weather.

By the early 1960's the pioneers of Land Speed Racing began to notice subtle changes in the surface of the raceway. There were discussions of why the surface seemed to be getting weaker and that this unique body of land was shrinking. We were able to get only as much as 7 miles of decent salt for our courses, if we were lucky. It wasn't long before fingers were pointed at the mining industry on the south side of interstate 80. Owned by Kaiser Chemical, their operations covered some 50 sq. miles of the salt flats.

Rick Vesco, our first chairman of Save The Salt, spearheaded the effort to meet with Utah State and Federal Government officials as well as the Chemical Company to resolve the problem of salt depletion. The goal was to return the salt that was accumulating in their settling ponds at the mining facility to the Raceway. These early cries for help continued until 1989 when the Save the Salt Organization was founded and struggled to achieve recognition as they began to see the heavy toll the mining industry was taking on the salt flats. In the meantime Kaiser Chemical had sold the operation to Reilly Chemical and a new 20-year lease for mining had been signed.

The once healthy 18 plus inches of salt had become so fragile that the Race Courses had to be moved farther and farther east. Running on the long International Race Course was no longer possible. Reilly Industries was forcing water through canals crisscrossing the flats into their evaporation ponds from which potash was extracted. It was estimated that the process was taking an estimated 850,000 tons of salt from the flats each year.

The Save the Salt Board has members from the Southern California Timing Assn (SCTA) / Bonneville Nationals Inc (BNI) and Utah Salt Flats Racers Assn (USFRA). This group was able to negotiate a restoration agreement in 1997. Working hand in hand with the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) and Reilly Chemical Co. they began to work together to return salt from the ponds.

The Lay down Project was to reverse the process by pumping brine water back onto the salt flats at the rate of 1.5 million tons of salt each year for 5 years. The BLM, Reilly Chemical and the Racers embraced the plan. It was a giant step forward with Government and Industry working together. From the beginning of the pumping project racers began to notice changes in the surface. By the end of the 5-year pumping plan the racers were able to get back to running on the old International Course. Though not as long, there was a noticeable difference in the hardness and durability of the racecourses and on a few occasions we were able to get as much as an 11 mile course. Once again the Potash Plant has been sold. Intrepid Industries is now the owner and has shown an interest in our quest to have a healthy Bonneville Salt Flats and a strong racecourse surface. They showed their support by once again starting the pumping process the first of February 2005. We commend them for their efforts. The Save the Salt Board is committed to working with both the BLM and Intrepid Industries. While there is still a lot more to be done, our vigilance appears to have paid off, not just for the racing competitors but also by preserving this historical natural treasure, The Bonneville Salt Flats, for future generations to come.

Save The Salt Board:

Chairman: Larry Volk
Secretary: Mary West
Treasure: Russ Eyres

Technical Advisors:

Rick Vesco
Bonner Denton
Gordon Hoyt
Duane McKinney

Members of the Board:

BNI, Mike Waters
SCTA, Roy Creel
USFRA, Jim Burkdoll


Please send your donations to:
Save The Salt

c/o Russ Eyres
3673 Millikin St. - San Diego CA, 92122

Stromberg Carburator: Fuel Pumps and Carbs, Part 2

FUEL PUMPS:
Flathead Ford stock fuel pump pressure is 3-1/2 Psi. The fuel pump pressure can be adjusted by adding or subtracting fuel pump stand gaskets. The gaskets we get in engine gasket sets are quite thin (about 0.010” thick) .,.. and we only get one. What I use are 8BA thermostat housing gaskets to adjust the fuel pump stand height to decrease the pressure down to the 3 1/2 psi. I want. They are only slightly larger, but are considerably thicker. On my ‘34, I had to use two of them to get my new Carter fuel pump pressure down to 3 1/2 psi from the 4 1/2 psi it came with.

Just because the fuel pressure is within specifications does not mean the fuel pump is good. It can have good pressure but not pump enough volume. It has to pump at least one pint of gas within 30 seconds with the engine running between 500 and 600 rpm.

Fuel pump push rods are supposed to be replaced when wear exceeds 0.010”. If wear exceeds this amount, the pressure/volume may be insufficient to feed the engine when asked to run flat out or during a hot summer day. Watch the amount of chamfer on the cam end to determine when they’re worn out.

Ford, Holley, and Stromberg carburetors were designed to run on 2 1/2 psi fuel pump pressure not the 3 1/2 to 4 1/2 psi the stock mechanical fuel pump is supposed to deliver. Why Henry made a fuel pump that puts out more pressure than the carb can withstand is beyond me. I use an adjustable type fuel pressure regulator located between the stock fuel pump and the Stromberg carbs and set it at 2 1/2 lbs. This prevents flooding from too much pressure on the needle seat assembly.

When you’re performing your spring tune-up, be sure you tighten the screws that hold the fuel pump together since they relax with age. Also check the glass bowl bail to make sure it’s tight also. As these relax they will suck air instead of fuel and cause you to stall on a hot day. I recommend you check them in the spring and again before you take a long trip across country.

FUEL PRESSURE REGULATING:
Fuel pressure is very critical to these early carburetors. Early Ford Motor Co. shop bulletins and manuals state the Ford/Holley/Chandler Grove and Stromberg carburetors are all designed to operate at 2 1/2 psi. Yet the fuel pump delivery pressure spec’s call for 3 1/2 psi ! I don’t understand the thinking behind this. The Strombergs are very sensitive to fuel pressure because of their float/needle valve design. It just doesn’t exert enough pressure to overcome the fuel pressure. They have a tendency to flood when fuel pressure is in the neighborhood of 3-1/2 lbs. On these carbs I install a pressure regulator and set it at 2-1/2 psi. This regulator HAS to be physically located between the fuel pump and carb since the fuel pump is putting out 3-1/2 Psi. If you’re entering your classic car for judging, then carry a spare fuel line without the regulator and replace it when you get to the meet.

STROMBERG CARBURETORS:
Applications:
48’s had a 1.031’ venturi and are rated at 175 cfm.
~They were stock on ‘34 and ‘35 V-8’s with 221 cu. inches. Main jets were 48 at sea level.

81’s had a 0.812” venturi and are rated at 135 cfm.
~They were stock on ‘37 and ‘38 V-S 60’s.

97’s had a 0.969” venturi and are rated at 150 cfm.
~They were stock on ‘36 and ‘37 V-S’s with 221 cu. inches. Main jets were 45 and power valves were #65 at sea level.

L’s had a 1.000” venturi and are rated at 160 cfm.
~They were stock on ‘36 and ‘37 Lincoln V-12’s.

The Stromberg 97 is the most popular and plentiful at this time and they’re getting pretty scarce. All of the mentioned carbs are quite similar and the following can be interpolated for your specific application

STROMBERG 97 CARBURETORS
Main metering jet numbers indicate the diameter of the hole in thousandths. Hence a ff46 jet has a 0.046” diameter hole. At sea level these carbs came with #45 jets. For carbs used in Denver I use a #43 jet (0.043” in diameter) for starters. These jets are drilled straight through (carbs manufactured beginning in the 60’s have jets with a venturi in the middle and shouldn’t be drilled) . Since they are drilled straight through they can be soldered shut and re-drilled. The solder is softer than the brass and the jets will probably have to be re-soldered and drilled about every 15,000 miles or so.

The power valve used to be called the “high speed jet”. The power valve is all brass and does not have a vacuum diaphragm like the Holley/Ford/Chandler Grove carburetors do. The power valve has one small hole drilled in the side for fuel flow. Unlike the main jets, the numbers on a Stromberg power valve are NOT the diameter of the hole. They refer to the numbered drill used to drill the hole. (Numbered drills are backward the larger the number the smaller the drill bit.) These carbs come with a #65 (0.0350” diameter) power valve at sea level. In Denver, I solder this hole shut and re-drill it with a #67 drill (0.0320” diameter) for starters. Soldering these and redrilling (like the main jets) is the way to go since power valves are getting impossible to find. Below are the numbered drill bits and their diameters.

#61 = 0.0390” #62 = 0.0380” #63 = 0.0370” #64 = 0.0360”
#65 = 0.0350” #66 = 0.0330” #67 = 0.0320” #68 = 0.0310”
#69 = 0.0292” #70 = 0.0280” #71 = 0.0260” #72 = 0.0250"

The dry float level setting is 5/16” plus or minus 1/32” measured without a gasket. This is close enough to start the engine, but the floats should be set with the engine running so the fuel level is 15/32” (plus/minus 1/32”) from the top of the fuel bowl without a gasket. Be careful while making the run setting since raising the float will cause fuel to overflow onto the engine. With this wet setting, there should be no problem with gas soaking through the float bowl gasket and running down the outside of the carb. With the close proximity of the sparking generator commutator, I prefer my carbs stay dry on the outside no guts or faith in my fire extinguisher I guess. On these carbs, the idle discharge circuit supplies the fuel from idle to 25 mph. The main jet circuit operates between 25 and 70 mph. Above 70, the power valve cuts in.

The idle screws are different appearing from Holley carbs although I’ve seen Holley screws in Strombergs! Each has a different taper angle and are not interchangeable even though the threads are the same. The needle taper extends right up to the threads on Strombergs. On 1-lolley carbs, the needle taper stops short of the threads. Many, but not all, Stromberg idle screws have the screwdriver slot cut only half way across whereas the Ford/Holley/Chandler Grove idle screws all have their screwdriver slots cut all the way across. Incidentally, the Ford/Holley/Chandler Grove carbs are basically the same carbs, but manufactured by different companies.

I prefer Strombergs over the Ford/Holley/Chandler Grove carbs for a couple of reasons especially on multi-carb installations. One is in the throttle base and the other is the power valves. The Stromberg throttle base seems to have better machine work on the throttle valves and the throttle bores in that they don’t stick when coming off idle at a stop light. This makes for smooth throttle openings besides returning to idle without sticking. The other advantage, in my opinion, is the Stromberg’s power circuit. It uses mechanically operated brass power valves instead of vacuum operated diaphragm power valves as found in the Ford/Holley/Chandler Grove carbs. When using multiple carbs the manifold vacuum is usually low... . which contributes to premature opening of the vacuum controlled power valve. It’s not uncommon to find these valves opening with less than ‘A throttle applications since almost any drop in vacuum is enough to make them operate. As can visioned, this leads to a rich condition when it’s not needed. It’s impossible to compensate for this over rich condition by reducing the main jets because when these vacuum power valves open it’s the same as increasing the main jet size 10 whole numbers~ No wonder they always run richl The Stromberg’s mechanical power valve operates mechanically and is relatively unaffected by low vacuum. This eliminates the over rich conditions that are caused by the power valve opening too soon or when it’s not needed. Also, the Stromberg power valves can be drilled to suit your needs and driving habits whereas the vacuum type cannot since they are sized during manufacturing.

When your setting up the carb(s), be sure to check the plugs for indications of leanness and/or detonation for both the main jet range and the power valve range.

Footnote: Info by "Rumbleseat"

The Stromberg 2 bbl Carburator; Part 1

A Quick touch on Hot Rod History
Of all the parts for hot rods in the 40's-50's and 60's--the Stromberg is king. Almost every hotrod of this era had a pair, triples or up to six or eight with chrome scoops or bonnets. One of the core reasons for thier too use was the quick-ness to change the carb jets when swapping fuel during racing days. The great thing about thier popularity, there are alot of companies that make and carry parts for these carburator, keeping the love and thier use alive. Now, the 97 carburator has become so popular, they are being re-created and re-engineered new. Lets check out some of the other vintage Stromberg 2bbl "EE" models out there. All similar in looks to the popular "97" type carburator.

Stromberg Model "48"
The Model 48 had a 1-1/32" venturi and named for the jet size .048" I think. It was standard equipment on most 1934 and all 1935 Ford V-8 pass. cars and trucks. Most of these carbs are not marked 48, but some (not all) have the venturi size 1-1/32" stamped on the side of the bowl. This carb looks identical to the 97 and in fact uses the same base. The bases are marked EE-1. The top of the 48 will fit the 97 and many 97's out there have 48 tops, and 48's will have the 97 tops although the choke linkage ball detent is not found on the 48 top. The 48 makes a great hot rod carb because of increased cfm (approx. 170) over the 155 cfm of the "97". The actual flow bench checks show that in test the carb flow rates are not real consistent and a good flowing 97 will actually flow almost the same as some 48s. I think this is caused by the different casting molds used by Stromberg and sub-contractors over the years not being consistent. Die casting was a new thing to the industry back then and they had a few problems. I prefer the 48 carb for most overhead valve setups and hot flathead dual intakes. They are gaining in popularity fast today as guys find out just how good they perform with th extra 1/16" of venturi (31/32" vs 1-1/32"). The good cores are getting harder to find due to the growing demand for the "48" carbs today. Average cost is ranging between $150 - $250 per rebuildable core.

Stromberg Model "97"
The model "97" had a 31/32" or 97/100s" venturi and was standard equipment on the 1936, 1937 and a few early '38 Ford pass. cars and trucks with the V-8 flathead engine. This carb was made for many years as a replacement unit after it became obsolete on Ford cars and trucks. The Stromberg "97" is the most famous of all hot rod carbs. Some are marked with a large, raised "97" inside a circle on the side of the bowl. Some have a small raised "97". Others have a small stamped 97. Still others have no markings at all. Look for the 31/32" venturi size marked on the side of the bowl on some, but not all "97s". Stromberg 97 bases are usually marked EE-1 and are the same as the model 48. The later aftermarket bases were triangle shaped much like the holley 94. Some had vaccum ports for use on the later flatheads. The good cores that haven't been chromed, broken, polished, sanded, modified, stored outside, frozen, cut, ground on, and beaten on with large hard objects, are getting hard to find and costly with the popularity of nostalgia hot rods today. Average cost is ranging between $100 - $200 per rebuildable core. Average price for new rebuilds: $250. The NEW Stromberg 97 price average is: $450.

Stromberg Model "81"
The model 81 had a small 13/16" or 81/100s" venturi and was standard equipment on the 1937 and 1938 Fords with the small V-8-60 engine. This carb was very popular with the midget racers using the V-8 -60 in years past and even today.
It was not produced in large amounts and good cores are rare today. This little carb flowed about 125 cfm and make great hot rod carbs for small inch motors. Souped up Model A and B Ford and the little V-8-60 V-8 use these a lot.The body section and the base are much smaller inside on the 81 but the outside dimensions look the same. Most are marked with a large 81 on the side of the bowl, but all have the 13/16 venturi size stamped on the side of the bowl. The 81 uses a smaller base with tiny throttle plates and are marked marked EE-7/8. Average cost is ranging between $150 - $250 per rebuildable core.

If I missed anything, please add it in the comments; I'll post it.

History of Stewart Warner Guages

Stewart Warner is perhaps the most recognized name in vehicle instruments in the history of the U.S. automotive industry. In fact, the brand dates back to 1905 when John Stewart founded Stewart & Clark Company. Stewart brand speedometers were first used on original Ford Model Ts, after which the company established itself as a market leading supplier of instruments. Seven years later, in 1912, Stewart and Edgar Bassick joined forces to create a new company to manufacture vehicle instruments and horns. Bassick, whose acquisitions included the Alemite Company, and Stewart also acquired the Warner Instrument Company and, as such, the Stewart-Warner Instrument Corporation was born.

Started in Chicago, the firm erected a manufacturing plant on Diversey and over time, the operation expanded outwardly in all four directions, thus becoming a massive complex with over one-million square feet and six floors. Prominently situated in the middle of the factory, towards the front, was a huge clock tower featuring the words "Stewart" and Warner". Off to the right was another tower, also featuring the words Stewart Warner, that could be seen for miles around. Today, the old clock resides in front of an apartment complex on Diversey as the only reminder of this once sprawling facility.

Over the years, Stewart Warner supplied a majority of the instruments, hourmeters and senders used by not only the automotive industry, but also by the heavy-truck and off-highway markets. The firm also supplied a wide range of unusual products like radios and refrigerators. In its heyday, Stewart Warner was a powerful corporation that employed thousands of people.

http://www.stewartwarner.com/

Chevrolet's - 1934

Early Chevrolets; Lets touch on them for a minute. You don't hear or see them very often, but from time to time, one surfaces and it really catches your eye. Early Fords by far are everyones favorite amongst the other manufactures. It's my 'builders' opinion, it would mostly be due to the construction of the car; less wood, more metal (let us not forget the favorite V8 Engine too ). I'm not denying that the other makes have nice looking cars, common sense would tell me - Fords to be the favorite having less wood, more steel structure; less desireable Chevrolets and other makes, Wood Strucutres and steel panels. It's easier to make steel panels than it is to make curved wood structures.

Focusing on the car and not how they were built, Chevrolet's have some very distinctive lines and had a great potential for that 'Early Hot Rod' look. Early Fords had thier V8 Flatheads and Chevrolet's...V8 La Salle/Cadillac Engines, Hopped up Inline 6's, Beefed up Inline 8's. As I'm writing this, I laugh. Ford were simple and interchangeable; Motors and transmissions, Rear ends were relatively the same, the common Torque tube design.

The 1934 Chevrolet Master and Standard continued Chevrolet's year-old practice of building two distinct series of cars on different wheelbase lengths. The 1934 Chevrolet Master, in fact, now measured 112 inches, two inches longer than the 1933 model. The 1934 Chevrolet Standard model remained at 107 inches.

Both models retained six-cylinder power, but modifications to the Master's 206-cubic-inch engine boosted horsepower from 65 to 80. The Standard series repeated 1933's 181-cubic-inch 60-horsepower engine.

Chevrolet's big news this year was adoption of "Knee-Action," the sealed Dubonnet type of independent front suspension. Standard equipment on the Master series, it would not be offered on Standard models for a few more years.

Master models, while retaining the previous year's styling theme, looked heavier than their 1933 counterparts -- which they were, by some 225 pounds, about 60 pounds of which was due to the Dubonnet "knees." Three horizontal hood louvers replaced the doors used in 1932-33, and wheels were reduced in size to 17 inches. Free Wheeling was optional on Master models only.

The Standard line was expanded to five body styles. Prices were raised by $40 on Standard models and as much as $100 on the Master series. Production increased by 29 percent, with the Standard coach scoring the biggest gain.

Here is a short video on all of thier makes in 1934. Enjoy!

Small Talk on Traditional Hot Rods!

I always get asked what is a Traditional Hot Rod? Lets talk about it then:

A traditional hot rod is put together to look like it was built (or could have been built) decades ago, by using as many parts as possible that were made no later than the Fifties or the Sixties at the latest.

The first step in planning a project car is to decide on what you want to end up with when the car is finished. The goal is to pick a theme for the car and stay with it. My taste in hot rods leans toward cars that were built (or look they were built) between the early 1950s and the late '60s, especially in northern California. Roadsters, phaetons, cabriolets, coupes, sedans, sedan deliveries, and even pickups are all good candidates; but the "phantom" body styles that are often seen on street rods could be considered to be out-of-place on a traditional car. Whatever era of car you're building, once you have picked a theme for it, it's important to stay within that time frame.

For example, a '50s car would have had a generator, not an alternator. To do it right, you're going to have to use bias-ply tires instead of radials. If you're building a car with a '50s or '60s (or even a '70s) theme, you'll want to avoid using parts like small block Chevy center-bolt valve covers, or any other parts that weren't available at the time. Hence the term "period correct".

It's easy to miss the point in the eyes of purists. You have to stay with the theme. More than any other parts on a hot rod, it's the wheels that set the theme for the car. Here's a brief overview of some of the wheels that have been popular on hot rods over the years.

Going all the way back to the birth of hot rodding and oval track racing in the 1920s, most hot rods were early Fords that used early Ford steel wheels that were stock or modified. By the early '50s, Ted Halibrand's magnesium wheels became the standard choice on Indy cars, sprint cars, and midget racers. Some, but not many, of his wheels were also run on the street. Chrome steel wheels and spun aluminum Moon discs were introduced later in the 1950s. In the early '60s, the magnesium Halibrand Sprint provided the inspiration for the aluminum Ansen Sprint, which looked similar to the magnesium Halibrand but with a fully-machined face that eliminated the raised lips around the slots. The early '60s also saw the introduction of the aluminum American Racing Torq-Thrust five-spoke, and the Cragar S/S composite steel and aluminum five-spoke. In the mid-'60s, these were followed by the American Racing Torq-Thrust "D" for new '65 Corvettes with disc brakes. The late '60s saw the introduction of the E-T III. These are some of the wheels that are discussed in more detail on this site's page about classic racing wheels.

If you're building a traditional early Ford hot rod, especially a '40s or '50s car with a flathead, Mike Bishop and Vern Tardel have written an excellent book that shows what's involved in selecting parts and getting them to work together. The book lists for $24.95 normally.

The sites that follow have been selected as being representative of a growing trend in hot rodding: a return to rodding's roots, with cars being built by using a lot of original parts, and built by their owners, they way they were decades ago. And unless they're on their way to the drag strip or the salt flats, you won't see them on trailers.

These cars are built to be driven and enjoyed.

Happy Veterans Day!

Happy Veterans Day!

A big "HOORAH" to all those who have served to protect this great Nation of ours. A big "THANK YOU" to all who gave the ultimate sacrifice for this great country of our. I am forever in debt to you. The words "Thank You" cant express it enough. I stand and salute each and every one of you.

'Thank You!"

I proudly served in the US Navy, 1989 - 1997. I was stationed on the USS Asheville; SSN-758. TM2 (SS)

I wanted to post a few of my favorite You Tube vidoes that I have seen over the past year to commemorate this special day.

If you have been to my blog, you have seen this before. It's moving and so true. This video was featured on Fox News, Hannity and Combs and a few other big news organizations. If you have not seen this; take a minute and watch it - you will be touched.



Take a moment to thank a US Veteran!

Allegheny LudlumSteel Stainless Steel 36 Ford

1936 Stainless Steel Ford

In 1935, officials at Allegheny Ludlum Steel Division and the Ford Motor Company collaborated on an experiment that would become a legacy and a tribute to one of the most dynamic metals ever developed.

Allegheny Ludlum, a pioneer producer of stainless steel, proposed the idea of creating a stainless steel car to Ford. The idea took shape in the form of a 1936 Deluxe Sedan. That car became the centerpiece of a campaign to expose the public to the new metal and its many uses.

This is the 1936 Ford built for and owned by Allegheny LudlumSteel. It was attending the open house and then was featured in a local parade with over 100 of Allegheny LudlumSteel's salaried, hourly and retired employees walking alongside. This is 1 of only 4 in existence and is the only one currently in running & in roadworthy condition. The car is in exceptional condition, with the interior and even the frame looking great. Notice the curvature of the front bumper so allow for access to crank the engine should your starter not work.

All 4 cars each had over 200,000 miles on them before they removed them
From service. These cars were built for Allegheny as promotional and marketing
Projects. The top salesmen each year were given the honor of being able to drive
Them for one year. The v-8 engine (max 85 hp) ran like a sewing machine and was
Surprisingly smooth and quite.

The car was insured (we were told) for the trip to Louisville via covered trailer for
1.5 million dollars. The dies for the 36 Ford were ruined by stamping the stainless
Car parts, making these the last of these cars ever produced.

More information of the history on these automobiles can be found at
Allegheny Ludlum's website.

Allegyeny Ludlum Stainless Steel Car

Starting Soon!

I have this new project; A 1929 Ford Coupe. Why is it that your worried about color even before rubber hits the rims? My goal with this thing is to produce a car with all the left over parts from previous projects. Its not the best pick of the litter, but its a great start for a cool traditional ride. Parts are going to hit the sandblaster next week, chassis parts will be painted and assembly to follow shortly.






Some of the parts that I have are:


1937 Ford Rear Wishbones
1940 Ford Front Wishbones
3.5" Drop, Ford Axle
Early Round-Back Spindles
16" Ford Steelies
4.50 WWW Firestone Front tires
7.50 WWW Firestone Rear tires
41 Ford Banjo Rear End
Early Juice Brakes Front and Rear
1929 Ford Model A Front Grill
1929 Ford Hood Assembly




1956 Chevy, 265 Small Block Engine
4bbl Carb
Stock Chevy Intake
1939 Ford 3-Speed
Chevy Saginaw 3-speed Transmission

A few questions; What would be a good body and wheel combo? What type of transmission should I run with? To Channel or to "High Boy"? Lets hear some ideas that I could run with and consider.

Thanks!

Blogging... The lack of

For all my readers, sorry for not keeping up on my site; the election has really taken alot of my time. Now that were at the end of it; look for more articles/blogs to be posted!

If you haven't already.... GO VOTE!

Cool little tub spotted on I-10