Glenn Miller - At Last!

Showing posts with label Model A. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Model A. Show all posts

5/15/10

1928 Ford Roadster - Custom, For Sale!








Im wanting to sell my 1928 Custom Ford Roadster. Cash is great, but will consider trades - I like 1949 1950 Mercury, 1935 1936 Ford coupes

If your looking for Traditional, this is it. This car was built modeled after the 1932 Ford Roadster owned by Veda Orr, from the 1940's.

Here are my specificatons of the car:

Engine - 4 banger - Model A:
- Stock Model A bottom End
- “Hot” Flathead Model A Cam – Biggest grind (unknown numbers – Made from fellow in Temecula, Ca.
- Model “C” Head, chambers polished and smoothed
- Adjustable Model A lifters
- 4” bore
- Valves have been lapped to block
- New valve springs and keepers
- Aluminum Timing gear
- 25 lbs lighter flywheel
- 32 Ford Mechanical Advance Distributor with updated points (Mustang)

Fuel System:
- Stromberg 97 Carburetors
- Holley 1-4 lb. fuel regulator – chrome
- Standard 12v electric fuel pump with built in reguator
- Model ‘T’ Oval tank – Approx 7 gallons
- ‘Vintage Metal’ 2 port fuel block

Rear End:

- Stock Model A Ring Gear – 4:11
- Kiwi Quick Change – New Zealand - The Best
- 6 spline Standard Winters Gears – Setup 3:54 current
- Stock Model ‘A’ Axles
- Stock Model ‘A’ Axle tubes
- Completely new bearings
- New Pinon Bearing – Double Race
- New Axle Seals
- Lucas Gear Oil in Case

Drive Line:
- Ford V-8 Driveshaft cut down to fit with 6 splice coupler machined and welded on end
- Stock Model ‘A’ Torque Tube
- 37 – 39 Ford 3- Speed Top Loader transmission – Completely rebuilt
- Model 'A' to 3 Speed Aluminum Adapter
- Lucas Gear Oil in Case

Steering:
- Ford F-1 Steering Box with Model ‘A’ 2 bolt flange welded
- 40 Ford upper steering shaft
- Vintique – 1940 Ford Deluxe steering wheel
- 40 Ford column Jacket
- 1937/38 Ford Column Drop – Ignition Switch

Brakes:
- Early Juice – 40 Ford
- 1949 – 1951 Ford Master Cylinder
- Model A Pedals with F-1 Ford upper arms welded to accept round pads
- Setup – Hard lines and fitting like 1940 Ford Juice brakes

Suspension:
- Superbell Front Axle – 4” Drop
- Early Ford Round Back – 1935 – 1939 Ford Spindles
- New Kingpins installed
- Model A Friction shocks
- Front Wishbones – ends were cut off, flipped from side to side and welded in upside down, angle cut for 8.5 deg caster
- Rear Wishbones are stock Model A
- Front spring – Mono Leaf
- Rear spring – Posie Super Slider for Model ‘A’
- 1935/1936 Ford 16” Wire Wheels
- 5.50 x 16” Dirt Tracker Firestone Tires with Tubes
- 7.00 x 16” Bias Ply tire with Tubes

Emergency Brake:
- Unknown Year – Early 30’s Chevrolet; Possible Sedan/Sedan Delivery Pistol grip
- Stock Early Ford Juice Brake Cable driven Emergency Brakes
- Custom Linkage from E-Brake Handle

Electrical:
- 12v GM one Wire Alternator – 74 amp
- Universal Headlight Switch
- 1940 Ford Dimmer Switch on floor
- 1955 Chevy glass fuse Accessory panel
- 12v standard coil
- Aftermarket safety fuse at starter
- 30 amp fusible link at starter leading into car
- Universal Heater speed control switch – Borg Warner
- 1928 Ford Drum taillight
- 1934 Ford Headlights – 12v bulbs
- Early Nash – Possible 30’s Heater box – 6v with voltage Reducer added
- Standard push pull switch under dash for fuel pump shut off

Wire Color Codes:
o Headlamp – Green – Low Beam
o Headlamp – Yellow – High Beam
o Brake light – Green – Brake Light
o Tail light – Yellow – Tail light/License Plate Light (Same Bulb)
o Fuel Pump – Dark Blue
o Brake Light Switch – Grey
o Heater/Fan Power – Purple
o Headlight Switch – Yellow
o Main Power from Starter - Red
o Coil to Distributor– Pink
o Coil power feed – White
o Dash Lights - Brown

Body:
- Started as 1928 Ford Sports Coupe
- Doors were shortened top to bottom and topped with inner panels installed
- Bear claw latches installed
- 1932 Ford interior door handles installed
- 1939 Ford Super Deluxe Dash with all original gauges – Working!
- Bake-light ball knobs – picked up from local hardware store
- Polished stainless steel washers installed behind balls for bright work
- Stock 1939 Ford Glove box
- Rear deck above decklid was stretched 5” to accommodate Ford Roadster specifications
- Brookville standard decklid
- Stock Body, no modifications - Made from 4 other Model 'A's for good sheetmetal
- Custom windshield stanctions
- 1928/1929 Ford Roadster Windshield including all hardware and rubber
- Custom made foldable roadster top
- Custom made wood for rear deck and floors
- Custom made floors and rear hump pans
- Original 1932 Ford Truck Grill
- Custom wood floors

Frame:
- Stock Model A with 4” Step in rear

Cooling:
- Model ‘A’ Radiator Modified with front fill tube, top tube solderd shut
- Model ‘B’ Water pump – Stock
- 4 blade cooling fan – Stock
- Aluminum belt pulley on water pump

The interior and top are completed. I also have custom side curtains made for the car.

Car is titled and non op'd.

This project is freshly completed and has never been on the road. There are a few details that I am working on, but it runs (runs well but I am working on dialing the carburetors), sounds strong, Electrical is fully completed, fuel system is fully completed. This car was built to drive not trailer...period. She's not a trailer queen!

$21,000.00 firm or trade for chopped 40 Mercury

5/18/09

Dropping an A-Axle

I found this video showing the concept of dropping straight axles. Im not sure if I approve of the process; speaking more on a safety level. It does give you an idea of the concept.

What do you think?

5/12/09

Model B Camshaft

Here we have a Model B Camshaft. The bearing surfaces measure roughly 1.555" - 1.560" diameter. All surfaces were polished. The black marks on the lobes are stains in the metal. This cam was chucked into a lathe and cleaned up with steel wool and lubricants.




4/23/09

For Sale - 1928-29 Ford Sedan Hot Rod!



Every now and again, I like to post cool cars for sale, even on Ebay. This one struck me pretty hard since the owner is selling because of his recent unemployment. I hope this 'plug' will help him out with more exposure to the auction.

This car looks mean as heck and spot on in the traditional lines.

Sedan's description:
This is a 29 ford sedan built about ten years ago and sitting in storage. It's a driver and I've put about 200 miles on it. It rides fair but since there are so few miles on it there are some bugs that need to be worked out. The steering is somewhat loose and and the rear suspension needs stiffer springs. I have not attempted to adjust the springs that are on it but they are adjustable. The body is steel and and the metal is very sound. The fenders are fiberglass. There is minor surface rust in some areas such as the floor boards but it really is a solid car. It has no roof filler or windows. The lights are installed but I have not wired them, nor have I wired the guages. I have been driving it without plates though I do have a clear title. Here is what the car has: Glide seat upholstered in grey twead, A 327 chevy motor( runs good doesn't smoke) a 350 tranny (it's a little spongy but works fine), good tires all the way around with very little wear. A Bell straight axle, 9" ford rear. Four bar suspension front and back. Discs up front, drums in back. limewords stearing column and wheel. It has a hood and hood sides not shown in the pictures.

This has been a pleasant car to play with. I did not build it originally (it was build by a shop in Washington) but I made it streetable. I would not sell this car if Oregon was not number one in the nation for unemployment (you voted for Obama not me). Shipping is a negotiable option. If you have questions please feel free to call me at any time. I'll answer any questions you may have.

Call Steve 503-267-0232 if your interested in this car. I know if I had the $$$ I would be all over it.

220399457180

Good luck Steve. May God bless you and your family.

What a Wild Ride!

I found this on YouTube.com and I just had to post this. Its simple and 'could be' boring. A couple of guys heading out into town probably for lunch. Just watching it made me crack up! So Cool!

11/9/08

Starting Soon!

I have this new project; A 1929 Ford Coupe. Why is it that your worried about color even before rubber hits the rims? My goal with this thing is to produce a car with all the left over parts from previous projects. Its not the best pick of the litter, but its a great start for a cool traditional ride. Parts are going to hit the sandblaster next week, chassis parts will be painted and assembly to follow shortly.






Some of the parts that I have are:


1937 Ford Rear Wishbones
1940 Ford Front Wishbones
3.5" Drop, Ford Axle
Early Round-Back Spindles
16" Ford Steelies
4.50 WWW Firestone Front tires
7.50 WWW Firestone Rear tires
41 Ford Banjo Rear End
Early Juice Brakes Front and Rear
1929 Ford Model A Front Grill
1929 Ford Hood Assembly




1956 Chevy, 265 Small Block Engine
4bbl Carb
Stock Chevy Intake
1939 Ford 3-Speed
Chevy Saginaw 3-speed Transmission


A few questions; What would be a good body and wheel combo? What type of transmission should I run with? To Channel or to "High Boy"? Lets hear some ideas that I could run with and consider.

Thanks!

7/18/08

How Strong are Model A Rears, Part II - Snubbers

I was reading some information on line and came across this great post on Model A Rear ends and the use of a brass subber to help the ring gear from walking away from the pinion..causing rear end desintegration.
Here are a couple of photos to show where a snubber is located. I use a Kiwi Quickchange center section. This rear is using a Halibrand manual from speedway that showed a snubber in the later V8 quickchanges. Vic King " Midnite Oil " he said they had put a snubber in the rear end on their dragster to keep the ring gear from pushing away from the pinion, this being the weak spot on the "A"rear end. The one is made out of bronze and give it less than .005 clearance. When the ring gear pushes away the pinion will try to climb the ring gear and break the casting. This is where most model "A" halibrands will show traces of welding