For Sale: Custom 1957 Ford Truck!

For Sale. This truck was running. Has a 390 FE engine with auto trans. Front is clipped with a Lincoln, rear is disk brake with chevy trailing arms. Rear is bagged. Custom tailgate to match bed, Chrysler Cordoba front turn signals and custom taillights. Roof is chopped with all glass replaced. Even the vent wings open up.

Truck was channed but never finished so it needs floor and steering wheel hooked back up.

Email me at chopped50ford@yahoo.com if interested.

$3500 or Trade

Flathead Ford V8

The Ford flathead V8 was a V8 engine of the flathead type, designed by the Ford Motor Company and built by Ford and various licensees. During the engine's first decade of production, when overhead valve engines were rare, it was usually known simply as the Ford V‑8, and the first car model in which it was installed, the Model 18, was (and still is) often called simply the "Ford V‑8", after its new engine. When the engine was introduced in 1932, it was a market first in several respects: in cars that were affordable to the emerging mass market consumer, it was the first 8-cylinder, the first V8, and the first V engine to become available. It was the first independently designed and built V8 engine produced by Ford for mass production, and it ranks as one of the company's most important developments. A fascination with ever-more-powerful engines was perhaps the most salient aspect of the American car and truck market for a half century, from 1923 until 1973. The Ford flathead V8 was perfectly in tune with the cultural moment of its introduction, leading the way into a future of which the Ford company was a principal architect. Thus it became a phenomenal success. The engine design, with various changes but no major ones, was installed in Ford passenger cars until 1953, making the engine's 21-year production run for the U.S. consumer market longer than the 19-year run of the Ford Model T engine for that market. The engine was on Ward's list of the 10 best engines of the 20th century. It was a staple of hot rodders in the 1950s, and it remains famous in the classic car hobbies even today, despite the huge variety of other popular V8s that followed.

Different versions include the 136, 221, 239, 255, 337

For Sale or Trade! 1940 Ford Coupe

Im putting my 40 Ford Business Coupe up for Trade.

Im more interested in trading the car.
Looking for 49-51 Mercury. Could be open to other ideas, but they better be good.

Info on the car:
New Aluminum Radiator

8BA Flathead Motor runs good, fires right up, could be tired, I have not pulled the heads, but have driven it...lots of fun and reliable.

Trans shifts nice.

New Bias Ply WWW tires front and rear.

16" Steelies

New Dropped axle in front and rebuilt suspension.

New springs front and rear.

New Gas Tank

I have gone through the brakes and rebuilt the wheel cylinders and put them back together. Could use some shoes soon. Stops good.

The Hood on the car has seen better days. But I have an extra nice hood to go with car.

I have set of Edelbrock finned Alum Heads and 2x2 intake with carbs to go with car.

Awesome Patina. Interior is Good.

The car runs and drives well.


Some of the bad:
No trunk floor, was cut out years ago
The floors are fair

$16,000 Firm or Trade

Two 49 Fords

One great view. The front shoebox looks awesome in its current state, its going to show nicely and in a strong "traditional" way. The back shoebox, is up for a make over...I love what I do. Saving them one ride at a time!

1949 Ford....What if?

What if Ford in 1949 decided to do a stock car that looked like a custom. What would it look like? How would the family fit in a car as this?

I ran across this modified ad on a photoshop thread and I was extremely blown away by the work done on this...it looks as if it WERE a car Ford was pushing for the public.

I have several more of these and will be posting them during the week....

I just love it!

1958 Ford Fairlane

1941 Ford "Rudy" Pickup Project

Not much to see, but color sanding has begun. Body and Bed to be installed on Chassis tomorrow.

1941 Ford "Rudy" Truck Project

Bed and parts in new paint color!

1941 Ford "Rudy" Truck Project

Here are more updates on the 1941 Ford "Rudy" Truck project that were working on. The bed sides are getting massaged and most of the supports are being replaced.

For Sale - 1938 Ford Coupe

I always like to plug cars for sale, when they duly deserve it. I love 30's American cars and thier body lines. Check this out.








1938 Ford Deluxe Coupe, flathead ford engine, Car runs and drives good. This is just a good old unrestored car. Call Scott 770-739-1686 or 678-283-6993

$18,000.

1949 1950 1951 Ford - An Era of Automobile Change

Although all Fords looked nearly identical during the 1949-1951 model years the cars themselves were dramatically changed underneath. The reason was that the '49 was a dog of a machine that rode poorly, rattled and shook, and was fraught with defects. During its 17-month production run it caused nothing but trouble for the company, but well over a million of them were sold to a public starved for new cars.

By the 1950 model year's fall of '49 introduction, Ford engineers had solved most of the major problems with the cars. The loosy-goosey '49's frame and body were stiffened and thickened in many areas, body sealer was pumped into weld joints, door weatherstrip was redesigned and the front end was re-engineered. The old one, Ford's first fully independent front suspension, was impossible to align so the '50 model was given the addition of a redesigned torsional stabilizer and a bunch of other tweaks. The rear springs were relocated as well in a response to customer complaints about bouncy ride.

The gas filler neck was removed from the body and put behind a little flap door and the bumpers were strengthened to allow the cars to be jacked up. Many earlier '49 Fords were attempted to be jacked up at the side of the road, only to find the bumpers and brackets bending hopelessly out of place and the wheel still on the ground.

Many other refinements were put into the 1950 models in an attempt to keep customers from going over to Chevrolet and, for the most part, the result was quite acceptable. The base engine was the same flathead inline 6 from earlier years. It was a very good engine that put out 95 horsepower. The venerable flathead V8 was optional. It put out 100 horsepower and didn't suffer the piston-slap and timing gear problems of earlier engines.

Sedans and business coupes were upholstered in striped gray fabric or broadcloth, but customers could opt to get the same thing in tan. Vinyl was used on the sides and tops of seats and the door panels were done in the same material as the seats. Headliners too were done in broadcloth and the stamped-steel instrument panels were done in either gray or tan. These were the days of rubber floor mats, by the way, and only the very top-end models offered carpet. "Magic-Air" heaters were optional too.

The 1950 model lineup included 2-door and four-door sedans, business coupes, convertibles and station wagons. The top of the line was the Crestliner, a gussied-up and heavily trimmed model that very few people bought because Ford didn't advertise it in any noticeable way, and it was about $200 more expensive than the other models. That was a lot of money in 1950.



1950 Fords were basic cars. Transmission offerings were limited to the 3-speed manual (three on the tree!) with an optional overdrive that was touted as "automatic," in the sense that it would cut in at speeds above 27 mph and return to normal below about 20 mph. Tires were 6.00 X 16, which was typical of the day. Whitewalls were a big deal back then, but tire life was pitiful by today's standards. Ten-thousand miles was a long, long life for a tire.

Secondchancegarage

The 1950 Ford

Although all Fords looked nearly identical during the 1949-1951 model years the cars themselves were dramatically changed underneath. The reason was that the '49 was a dog of a machine that rode poorly, rattled and shook, and was fraught with defects. During its 17-month production run it caused nothing but trouble for the company, but well over a million of them were sold to a public starved for new cars.

By the 1950 model year's fall of '49 introduction, Ford engineers had solved most of the major problems with the cars. The loosy-goosey '49's frame and body were stiffened and thickened in many areas, body sealer was pumped into weld joints, door weatherstrip was redesigned and the front end was re-engineered. The old one, Ford's first fully independent front suspension, was impossible to align so the '50 model was given the addition of a redesigned torsional stabilizer and a bunch of other tweaks. The rear springs were relocated as well in a response to customer complaints about bouncy ride.

The gas filler neck was removed from the body and put behind a little flap door and the bumpers were strengthened to allow the cars to be jacked up. Many earlier '49 Fords were attempted to be jacked up at the side of the road, only to find the bumpers and brackets bending hopelessly out of place and the wheel still on the ground.

Many other refinements were put into the 1950 models in an attempt to keep customers from going over to Chevrolet and, for the most part, the result was quite acceptable. The base engine was the same flathead inline 6 from earlier years. It was a very good engine that put out 95 horsepower. The venerable flathead V8 was optional. It put out 100 horsepower and didn't suffer the piston-slap and timing gear problems of earlier engines.

Sedans and business coupes were upholstered in striped gray fabric or broadcloth, but customers could opt to get the same thing in tan. Vinyl was used on the sides and tops of seats and the door panels were done in the same material as the seats. Headliners too were done in broadcloth and the stamped-steel instrument panels were done in either gray or tan. These were the days of rubber floor mats, by the way, and only the very top-end models offered carpet. "Magic-Air" heaters were optional too.

The 1950 model lineup included 2-door and four-door sedans, business coupes, convertibles and station wagons. The top of the line was the Crestliner, a gussied-up and heavily trimmed model that very few people bought because Ford didn't advertise it in any noticeable way, and it was about $200 more expensive than the other models. That was a lot of money in 1950.

1950 Fords were basic cars. Transmission offerings were limited to the 3-speed manual (three on the tree!) with an optional overdrive that was touted as "automatic," in the sense that it would cut in at speeds above 27 mph and return to normal below about 20 mph. Tires were 6.00 X 16, which was typical of the day. Whitewalls were a big deal back then, but tire life was pitiful by today's standards. Ten-thousand miles was a long, long life for a tire.

Adjusting your Early Brakes

Here are a few great drawings to reference too.

Information by "RumbleSeat"
Referenced Website: http://www.btc-bci.com/~billben/brakeadj.html


Adjusting '39-'42 Brakes:

I used to hate these brakes because of the adjustable double anchor when I was a mechanic in the mid fifties. Then a fellow mechanic showed me a Ford Service bulletin. Ever since then, I have preferred these to the '46-'48 units since I can get a better adjustment.

These are Lockheed brakes which use eccentric washers in conjunction with non-eccentric anchor pins to position the shoes. The top of the shoe is controlled by an eccentric cam (usually 11/16") located near the top of the shoe. The anchor pins, located at the bottom of the backing plate, control the shoe position by turning the eccentric washers at the bottom of the shoe. These anchor pins have locating on the elongated 1/4" adjuster. The locating marks may be a dot or an arrow, I'm assuming everything is in good condition and not rusty or frozen.

Step 1: Loosen the anchor pin large lock nuts (usually 3/4") on both shoes of one wheel just barley enough to permit turning the 1/4" anchor pin adjusters. Now, turn both of the 1/4" adjusters so the locator marks face directly towards each other. This next point is important .... All further adjustments are made by turning the anchor pins (1/4") and eccentric (11/16") downwards.

Step 2: Back off the upper eccentric cam adjusters on both shoes until the wheel rotates freely.

Step 3: Now turn one of the upper eccentric (11/16") until the wheel cannot be turned.

Step 4: Now turn it's 1/4" anchor pin adjuster downward until the wheel just turns freely. This lowers the shoe and moves the toe of the shoe away from the drum and results in fuller shoe contact.

Step 5: Now go back to Step 3 and do it and step 4 again to the same shoe. Repeat as necessary until turning the 1/4" anchor pin adjuster will no longer free up the wheel. Back off both anchor pin adjuster and upper eccentric just enough so the wheel has a slight drag. Tighten the anchor pin lock nut (3/4") without letting the anchor pin adjuster move. Now do the other shoe the same way.

If you've worn the shoes badly at the top, it'll take some time to wear the heel enough so you get full brake shoe contact.
When adjusting brakes, always turn the wheel in the same direction the wheel would turn when the car travels forward.


PS: The 1/4" anchor adjustment bolts require an offset open end wrench about 8 1/2" in length to get enough leverage to turn, I think it's a special Ford tool and hard to find.

Additional Information regarding the Adjustment of Early Brakes.

Adjusting the upper hex bolts to set shoe clearance is the easy part. The confusing part is the lower anchors on 39-42's. The Service Bulletin sends you through a procedure to follow, but does not explain why or what needs to be achieved.

The purpose of the lower anchors, which are eccentrics, is to properly position/center the linings in the drums, so that full lining contact can occur. OF FIRST IMPORTANCE is to have the new linings arc ground to fit the arc of the drums, which may be different on each drum, depending on the oversize of the drum. If this is not done, you are rolling the dice on whether the lining is too large of an arc (and will only contact the drum at the ends) or too small (and will only contact the drum at the center of the lining)- in either case, full contact cannot occur regardless of the anchor adjustment. Note also that the lower anchor adjustment is only required when installing new linings.

Once the anchor studs are set and the lock nuts are tightened, the shoes will not move out of center with the drums, and thereafter only the upper adjustment need be performed to compensate for lining wear.

In a nutshell, assemble the anchors with the dots facing each other as a starting point. Make sure that the drum turns freely, then adjust the uppers until they don't, then back them off until they do.

Have a helper apply about 30lbs of pressure to the brake pedal while (with the lock nut loosened) turning the flat on the anchor stud in each direction to cause the lining to impact the drum in both directions, then set the anchor in about the middle of that travel, hold the stud while tightening the lock nut. This essentially centers the lining up/down in the drum, allowing it to make full contact
when the brakes are applied. This operation is done to each anchor/shoe/lining separately. When all have been done, again adjust the upper (clearance) hex heads until the shoes are just barely off of the drums.

Road test and readjust as necessary to make it stop good and straight.

It is also important to have at least 1/16" of free travel of the Mcyl pushrod before it starts moving the Mcyl piston; otherwise, the brakes will not fully release, will get hot and will lock up.

The above is not exactly the same procedure as provided elsewhere, but it is what I do and it seems to work well. If you keep in mind what you are trying to accomplish, it makes sense.

Allegheny LudlumSteel Stainless Steel 36 Ford

1936 Stainless Steel Ford

In 1935, officials at Allegheny Ludlum Steel Division and the Ford Motor Company collaborated on an experiment that would become a legacy and a tribute to one of the most dynamic metals ever developed.

Allegheny Ludlum, a pioneer producer of stainless steel, proposed the idea of creating a stainless steel car to Ford. The idea took shape in the form of a 1936 Deluxe Sedan. That car became the centerpiece of a campaign to expose the public to the new metal and its many uses.

This is the 1936 Ford built for and owned by Allegheny LudlumSteel. It was attending the open house and then was featured in a local parade with over 100 of Allegheny LudlumSteel's salaried, hourly and retired employees walking alongside. This is 1 of only 4 in existence and is the only one currently in running & in roadworthy condition. The car is in exceptional condition, with the interior and even the frame looking great. Notice the curvature of the front bumper so allow for access to crank the engine should your starter not work.

All 4 cars each had over 200,000 miles on them before they removed them
From service. These cars were built for Allegheny as promotional and marketing
Projects. The top salesmen each year were given the honor of being able to drive
Them for one year. The v-8 engine (max 85 hp) ran like a sewing machine and was
Surprisingly smooth and quite.

The car was insured (we were told) for the trip to Louisville via covered trailer for
1.5 million dollars. The dies for the 36 Ford were ruined by stamping the stainless
Car parts, making these the last of these cars ever produced.

More information of the history on these automobiles can be found at
Allegheny Ludlum's website.

Allegyeny Ludlum Stainless Steel Car

1934 Ford Victoria - Project For Sale

Im a huge fan of 1933 and 1934 Fords. When one comes up and I know that I cannot afford at the time, I like to pass on the 'deal' to anyone else who may be able to save or own the same. 1934 Ford Victorias when done make a beautiful car. With or without fenders, the lines flow from front to back. Looking at the condition of this particular car; it needs a little bit of hard work, but in the end will present a beautiful piece of Hot Rod history on 4 wheels.

Here is some information I found from the owner selling this beauty. Give him a call and add it to your collection! I wish I could add it to mine!

The car is located in Illinois.

Owner writes: "Interested in this 34 Victoria?, ...nice chassis with matching title, stuck 37 flathead, no steering box, front fenders, hood or grille. Needs floor work, door bottoms and lower patch panels. $7500 or Best Offer, Call: 815-973-9304. Thanks."

Another 1960 Starliner Find!

I was browsing another website to find one of its members picked up this jewel of a car. 1960 Ford Starliners are one of my favorite 'bubble top' cars of that era. The lines and flowing body panels make this car stand out from the rest of them.

Its absolutely stunning in the condition that it is in. They are still out there, you just have to keep looking!

This is what the new owner wrote: "Here is my 60 Starliner fresh out of the pasture. 68k original miles with almost no rust. Original paint and interior. She runs perfect and the radio still works. I'm the third owner and was lucky to get the orginal title.."

Looking at the pictures below, See what you can do with one of these beauties; way to go 'Kirk!'. He shows that he's got a keen eye to detail and color combinations.

I absolutely love the color of the blue used on this car. The fade-a-ways are perfectly blended; just like Larry Watson did back in the day. The chrome steelies with the painted centers to match the car, stand out light enough to accent the rest of the bottom edge, stainless trim and full bumpers front and back. The clean white outlines along the perimeter of the side panels and hood offset the blue color between each panel enhancing each of the factory lines.

This is a wonderful example of a late 50's early 60's custom. It could fit nicely in the background of our favorite movie 'American Grafiti'.

Absolutely Stunning!