5/28/10
5/24/10
5/20/10
5/18/10
5/17/10
5/16/10
Schartel Pinstriping
Today, I had the pleasure to meet Mike Schartel of Shartel Hand Painted Artwork. I have never been so confident with a fellow artist to take up thier tools, just do it, and have a finished product that will knock your socks off! He makes the work look simple and easy.
Thanks Mike for the great work, I look forward to having you lay some lines on my Cadillac.
If you need any artwork done, Give him a call, he's mobile!
5/15/10
1928 Ford Roadster - Custom, For Sale!
Im wanting to sell my 1928 Custom Ford Roadster. Cash is great, but will consider trades - I like 1949 1950 Mercury, 1935 1936 Ford coupes
If your looking for Traditional, this is it. This car was built modeled after the 1932 Ford Roadster owned by Veda Orr, from the 1940's.
Here are my specificatons of the car:
Engine - 4 banger - Model A:
- Stock Model A bottom End
- “Hot” Flathead Model A Cam – Biggest grind (unknown numbers – Made from fellow in Temecula, Ca.
- Model “C” Head, chambers polished and smoothed
- Adjustable Model A lifters
- 4” bore
- Valves have been lapped to block
- New valve springs and keepers
- Aluminum Timing gear
- 25 lbs lighter flywheel
- 32 Ford Mechanical Advance Distributor with updated points (Mustang)
Fuel System:
- Stromberg 97 Carburetors
- Holley 1-4 lb. fuel regulator – chrome
- Standard 12v electric fuel pump with built in reguator
- Model ‘T’ Oval tank – Approx 7 gallons
- ‘Vintage Metal’ 2 port fuel block
Rear End:
- Stock Model A Ring Gear – 4:11
- Kiwi Quick Change – New Zealand - The Best
- 6 spline Standard Winters Gears – Setup 3:54 current
- Stock Model ‘A’ Axles
- Stock Model ‘A’ Axle tubes
- Completely new bearings
- New Pinon Bearing – Double Race
- New Axle Seals
- Lucas Gear Oil in Case
Drive Line:
- Ford V-8 Driveshaft cut down to fit with 6 splice coupler machined and welded on end
- Stock Model ‘A’ Torque Tube
- 37 – 39 Ford 3- Speed Top Loader transmission – Completely rebuilt
- Model 'A' to 3 Speed Aluminum Adapter
- Lucas Gear Oil in Case
Steering:
- Ford F-1 Steering Box with Model ‘A’ 2 bolt flange welded
- 40 Ford upper steering shaft
- Vintique – 1940 Ford Deluxe steering wheel
- 40 Ford column Jacket
- 1937/38 Ford Column Drop – Ignition Switch
Brakes:
- Early Juice – 40 Ford
- 1949 – 1951 Ford Master Cylinder
- Model A Pedals with F-1 Ford upper arms welded to accept round pads
- Setup – Hard lines and fitting like 1940 Ford Juice brakes
Suspension:
- Superbell Front Axle – 4” Drop
- Early Ford Round Back – 1935 – 1939 Ford Spindles
- New Kingpins installed
- Model A Friction shocks
- Front Wishbones – ends were cut off, flipped from side to side and welded in upside down, angle cut for 8.5 deg caster
- Rear Wishbones are stock Model A
- Front spring – Mono Leaf
- Rear spring – Posie Super Slider for Model ‘A’
- 1935/1936 Ford 16” Wire Wheels
- 5.50 x 16” Dirt Tracker Firestone Tires with Tubes
- 7.00 x 16” Bias Ply tire with Tubes
Emergency Brake:
- Unknown Year – Early 30’s Chevrolet; Possible Sedan/Sedan Delivery Pistol grip
- Stock Early Ford Juice Brake Cable driven Emergency Brakes
- Custom Linkage from E-Brake Handle
Electrical:
- 12v GM one Wire Alternator – 74 amp
- Universal Headlight Switch
- 1940 Ford Dimmer Switch on floor
- 1955 Chevy glass fuse Accessory panel
- 12v standard coil
- Aftermarket safety fuse at starter
- 30 amp fusible link at starter leading into car
- Universal Heater speed control switch – Borg Warner
- 1928 Ford Drum taillight
- 1934 Ford Headlights – 12v bulbs
- Early Nash – Possible 30’s Heater box – 6v with voltage Reducer added
- Standard push pull switch under dash for fuel pump shut off
Wire Color Codes:
o Headlamp – Green – Low Beam
o Headlamp – Yellow – High Beam
o Brake light – Green – Brake Light
o Tail light – Yellow – Tail light/License Plate Light (Same Bulb)
o Fuel Pump – Dark Blue
o Brake Light Switch – Grey
o Heater/Fan Power – Purple
o Headlight Switch – Yellow
o Main Power from Starter - Red
o Coil to Distributor– Pink
o Coil power feed – White
o Dash Lights - Brown
Body:
- Started as 1928 Ford Sports Coupe
- Doors were shortened top to bottom and topped with inner panels installed
- Bear claw latches installed
- 1932 Ford interior door handles installed
- 1939 Ford Super Deluxe Dash with all original gauges – Working!
- Bake-light ball knobs – picked up from local hardware store
- Polished stainless steel washers installed behind balls for bright work
- Stock 1939 Ford Glove box
- Rear deck above decklid was stretched 5” to accommodate Ford Roadster specifications
- Brookville standard decklid
- Stock Body, no modifications - Made from 4 other Model 'A's for good sheetmetal
- Custom windshield stanctions
- 1928/1929 Ford Roadster Windshield including all hardware and rubber
- Custom made foldable roadster top
- Custom made wood for rear deck and floors
- Custom made floors and rear hump pans
- Original 1932 Ford Truck Grill
- Custom wood floors
Frame:
- Stock Model A with 4” Step in rear
Cooling:
- Model ‘A’ Radiator Modified with front fill tube, top tube solderd shut
- Model ‘B’ Water pump – Stock
- 4 blade cooling fan – Stock
- Aluminum belt pulley on water pump
The interior and top are completed. I also have custom side curtains made for the car.
Car is titled and non op'd.
This project is freshly completed and has never been on the road. There are a few details that I am working on, but it runs (runs well but I am working on dialing the carburetors), sounds strong, Electrical is fully completed, fuel system is fully completed. This car was built to drive not trailer...period. She's not a trailer queen!
$21,000.00 firm or trade for chopped 40 Mercury
5/14/10
5/13/10
Alternators for your Classic!
A question was asked if you can wire your new alternator to the stock 30 - 35 amp guage in the dash. If the guage pegs at 30 amps and your running a higher amperage alternator, say a 60 or 75 amp; it should work fine. You risk damaging the amp guage, but that would be over along period of time.
I have wired into stock guages, like my 59 Buick, and it works. I run a 75 amp 3-wire alternator (which is better than a 1 wire), including an alternator lamp on the dash as well to give indication if the alternator fails, or if you loose a belt.
I have done other 58 and 59 models this way, it works for indicator purposes.
If you have a 105 amp alternator (which is extreme overkill if your running stock components, makes no logical sense), dont run it thought the amp guage, it will destroy it. Run an aftermarket unit or improvise a similar gauge to the stock guage panel. There are several threads of this done.
In case you ask why I use a 3 wire...it give 'pure' power/amps unlike a 1 wire. The 3 wire has your charging lead, a sensing lead and the indicator. The sensing lead senses what is in the battery and tells the alternator how much to charge, and at what volts. Typically an alternator should give between 13.8 to 14.4 volts to the battery during its charging cycle. Depending on the length of the cable from the alt to the battery, you get a voltage drop. The sensing lead tells the alt to add more if needed. Say you have a 2 volt loss from the alt to the battery. It boosts it charge to 15.8 - 16.4 for a pure 12 volt charge at the battery.
The 1 wire, gives 13.8 - 14.4, that's it, you get a 2 volt loss down the charging feed wire, your alt does not boost to make up the difference...so it works harder. Yeah it an easy hook up, but not as efficient.
A great all around 3 wire is one for 1983 Chevy Cavalier. It uses a 12SI GM alternator. 75-95 amps charging. It has the high air efficient fan with v groove. For 40 - 63 amp charging, you can step down to a 10SI alternator from a 1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme.
Most high amp 1 wire alternators, have the typical air cooling fan (metal blades), not enough air flow to keep it cool, you get burn out faster. Thus why I dont like em.
I have wired into stock guages, like my 59 Buick, and it works. I run a 75 amp 3-wire alternator (which is better than a 1 wire), including an alternator lamp on the dash as well to give indication if the alternator fails, or if you loose a belt.
I have done other 58 and 59 models this way, it works for indicator purposes.
If you have a 105 amp alternator (which is extreme overkill if your running stock components, makes no logical sense), dont run it thought the amp guage, it will destroy it. Run an aftermarket unit or improvise a similar gauge to the stock guage panel. There are several threads of this done.
In case you ask why I use a 3 wire...it give 'pure' power/amps unlike a 1 wire. The 3 wire has your charging lead, a sensing lead and the indicator. The sensing lead senses what is in the battery and tells the alternator how much to charge, and at what volts. Typically an alternator should give between 13.8 to 14.4 volts to the battery during its charging cycle. Depending on the length of the cable from the alt to the battery, you get a voltage drop. The sensing lead tells the alt to add more if needed. Say you have a 2 volt loss from the alt to the battery. It boosts it charge to 15.8 - 16.4 for a pure 12 volt charge at the battery.
The 1 wire, gives 13.8 - 14.4, that's it, you get a 2 volt loss down the charging feed wire, your alt does not boost to make up the difference...so it works harder. Yeah it an easy hook up, but not as efficient.
A great all around 3 wire is one for 1983 Chevy Cavalier. It uses a 12SI GM alternator. 75-95 amps charging. It has the high air efficient fan with v groove. For 40 - 63 amp charging, you can step down to a 10SI alternator from a 1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme.
Most high amp 1 wire alternators, have the typical air cooling fan (metal blades), not enough air flow to keep it cool, you get burn out faster. Thus why I dont like em.
5/12/10
5/11/10
5/6/10
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5/1/10
1957 Chevy Fuel Injection
The 1957 Chevrolet fuel injection system consisted of three components: fuel meter, manifold assembly and air meter. Instead of fuel and air being pre-mixed in the carburetor, then being forced through the intake manifold to each cylinder, the air supply is taken in separately through a manifold. The fuel is injected directly and constantly into each intake port where the two then mix.
The Ramjet was reported to have several advantages: increased power, instant accelerator response, faster cold starts, smoother engine warm-ups, elimination of carburetor icing and better overall fuel economy. One of the keys to the success of this system was the design of the fuel nozzles.
The basic operation of the system is as follows: For starting, a solenoid connected to the starter circuit operates to unseat the fuel valve. Air is fed to the air meter and is metered past a throttle valve, controlled by the position of the accelerator, into the manifold passages which feed each cylinder. As the air flows through the air meter, a signal is transmitted to the fuel meter, which determines the proper amount of fuel to be fed to the cylinders. The fuel is pumped to eight nozzles, one each in the manifold passage just above the intake valve. There the fuel and air mix and enter the cylinder when the intake valve opens.
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